Category Archives: Culture

Thinking about getting a tattoo

Tu cuerpo se constela de signos verdes 
como el cuerpo del árbol de renuevos. 
No te importe tanta pequeña cicatriz luminosa: 
mira al cielo y su verde tatuaje de estrellas. – Octavio Paz

Do you have a tattoo? Would you ever consider getting one? What do you think of tattoos? Yea or nay? I like tattoos in theory (though rarely in actuality), and I wish I were brave enough to get one. A beautiful sleeve or something on my upper arm or shoulder or back. It doesn’t fit well with my personality, though. And I like simplicity–white walls, clear surfaces, silence. I’ll live vicariously through other people’s tattoos, then.

Yesterday I learned how to say to get a tattoo in Spanish: hacerse un tatuaje

Ah! I never knew. I knew tatuaje, of course, as well as tatuar/tatuarse. But I didn’t know hacerse un tatuaje. Who knows, maybe I’ll be seized by some perfect line or image someday when I’m in a Spanish-speaking country. Now I’ll know how to tell someone to direct me to the nearest tattoo parlor stat.

You’d think that maybe you could just say tatú for tattoo, but it doesn’t work that way. Tatuaje sounds to me like tattooage, which sounds like how you’d describe the oeuvre of tattoos on a person’s body. Rest assured, though: tatuaje is tattoo, and tatú is, well, an armadillo. At least in the Southern Cone. I remember learning that word from Horacio Quiroga. One time in Medellín, I was with a group of people when one guy walked off for a while. When he came back, he said he’d gone across the street to eat a gurre sandwich. Gurre, as it turned out, is a rural Colombian word for armadillo. An armadillo sandwich? I can’t tell you how glad I am that I wasn’t offered any. Cachicamo is another Colombian way of saying armadillo.

I’ll admit that I don’t understand the grammar in the construction hacerse un tatuaje. It would sound like you’re giving yourself a tattoo, but I implicitly trust that somehow, in some way, it means just what it’s supposed to mean. It reminds me of hacerse un manicure, which is how you say to get a manicure, something I did many, many times in Colombia. Or, me corté el pelo, which is how you say I got a haircut. I don’t understand how these reflexive actions actually refer to someone else doing it to you, but I don’t understand how anything works in English either. Let’s let sleeping dogs lie.

Want a tattoo in Spanish but lack inspiration? Let’s look at a few.

Lo que sea necesario - Whatever it takes

Whatever it takes

I want nothing more than my madness

I want nothing more than my madness

To be happy one must learn to love what they do

To be happy one must learn to love what they do

You have to do everything in excess

You have to do everything in excess

Freedom's slave

Freedom’s slave

It never rains eternally

It never rains eternally

Too much

Too much

Gabriel García Márquez

Gabriel García Márquez

Feel inspired? Ready to get inked up? Nah, me neither. It’s interesting, though, to see what messages people try to immortalize on their bodies. Our bodies are temporary, anyway–why not make it our canvas? If you absolutely had to get a tattoo in Spanish, what line or word would you choose? To put it differently, if someone paid you a million dollars to get a tattoo of something in Spanish, what would you pick and why? Me, hmm. If just a word, maybe ojalá. A phrase? Mm, surely something from Neruda or Cortázar or García Lorca. Or Silvio Rodríguez. You may have, ahem, noticed that I’m a big fan of these people! What about you? Ever hear anything in Spanish so beautiful or so poignant you’d etch it on your body? Maybe this blog is my tattoo–I’m writing things down here because there isn’t room enough on my body. So many beautiful words, so many words full of meaning. Where are you writing things down?

Sincerémonos

If you ever want to pay me a big compliment, you should tell me that I’m sincere. (If you sincerely believe that, of course.) Sincerity is one of my all-time favorite qualities, and you’ll win a million points in my book if you show me that you value it as well. Too bad it gets such faint praise in our culture.

Not in Spanish, though. In Spanish, you’ll hear the words sincero/a and sinceridad significantly more than you ever hear them in English. I think this is because in addition to sincere, sincero encompasses other adjectives in English that we think are different and important enough to deserve their own word: upfront, genuine, plainspoken, candid, honest, etc. And maybe, just maybe, Hispanics really do value sincerity more. Americans, not so much.

I learned a few weeks back that you can say to be sincere as a verb in Spanish by saying sincerarse, and this came as a most welcome piece of news. Here was the sentence, courtesy of the Bogotá newspaper El Tiempo.

Sincerémonos, mientras haya quienes paguen, el que se cuele en TransMilenio es un ladrón.

Let’s be perfectly honest: so long as there are people who pay, anyone who sneaks onto the TransMilenio without paying is a thief.

I was so happy to learn this word. Sometimes I wonder which is better to focus on: who I am, or what I do? Which is more important? Which is more honest and essential? I always used to put so much emphasis on who a person was, but now I’m leaning more and more toward favoring what one does and seeing that as an irrefutable reflection of the kind of person they are. How wonderful to know that in Spanish I can make my sincerity into an action. Soy sincera, me sincero, en fin. At least, I long to be this way. I’m sincere . . . except for when I’m not. Except for when I’m a chicken, basically. Surely there’s so much more to potentially gain from just coming out and saying it, right?

Sinceridad

In high school, my locker was next to the locker of a guy named Sincer. He was Indian-American, and he told me that his parents had picked out the name Sincere for a daughter. When he came instead, they just lopped off the last letter. He was a great guy, always with a big smile. I also remember that he was the first person to tell me about the World Trade Center attack on September 11 at our lockers in between classes. How sincere was Sincer, really? How sincere are any of us?

I’m reminded of the last two stanzas of one of my favorite poems, William Stafford’s A Ritual to Read to Each Other:

And so I appeal to a voice, to something shadowy,
a remote important region in all who talk:
though we could fool each other, we should consider–
lest the parade of our mutual life get lost in the dark.

For it is important that awake people be awake,
or a breaking line may discourage them back to sleep;
the signals we give–yes or no, or maybe–
should be clear: the darkness around us is deep.

Even when I first read this poem as a featherbrained high schooler, somehow I registered just how important sincerity really was and what the stakes were. Especially when I now consider how much of my communication is in Spanish, a language I’ll never fully master and whose intricacies and secret nuances will always be just beyond my grasp. As I can never share a mother tongue with native Spanish speakers, it would seem that sincerity and plainspokenness are particularly important. So often, though, I insinuate, I tantalize, I encrypt. Since I still make mistakes and am not aware of all the implications and connotations of what I say, naturally everything that sounds suggestive can be conveniently chalked up to oh, maybe she didn’t realize how that sounded. I almost always do, though. I’m extremely deliberate, and sometimes I do just play dumb when it suits me. So, that’s my confession of the night; my resolution is to be more sincera and sincerarme on a much more regular basis. Who’s with me?

En serio, soy muy sincero y me tienes sorprendido con tu buen español.

Believe me, I’m very honest and I’m amazed by how good your Spanish is.

Es bueno hablar de las cosas sin pelos en la lengua, y decir simplemente lo que se piensa; porque si hay sinceridad, creo que todo se desarrolla mejor y de una manera más natural.

It’s good to be straight up and simply say what you think because I think that everything develops better and more naturally when there’s sincerity.

Yo, en compañía de todo mi equipo, te envío un abrazo
sincero colmado de agradecimientos y gratitudes; además extensivo a tus familiares, colaboradores y amigos.

I, along with my entire team, send you a heartfelt hug filled with thanks and appreciation that I also wish to extend to your family, partners, and friends.

Entre todos los títulos traducidos al inglés, te soy absolutamente sincero, no hemos vendido más de 100 unidades.

For all the books translated to English–I’m being completely honest with you here–we haven’t sold more than 100 units.

I think that whatever the dilemma, the answer is the same: Sincerémonos.

Sincerely,
V.

Haircuts

`Your hair wants cutting,’ said the Hatter. He had been looking at Alice for some time with great curiosity, and this was his first speech.–Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland

My hair had wanted cutting for a very long time, and today I finally acceded. I had a few hours in between my morning appointments at work and my afternoon one, and all of a sudden an irresistible flash of urgency came over me. I was either going to get it lopped off once and for all or I’d never get it cut, but I’d had it with my passivity and dawdling. I only realized how out of hand I’d let it get by way of dancing, my main pastime– while it can be sexy to whip my dance partners in the face with my hair while doing turns and spins, it had reached the point where they were getting unpleasantly ensnared in it. Not so sexy.

When my hair was still a manageable length for whipping, 8 months ago

When my hair was still a manageable length for whipping, 8 months ago

The last time I got a haircut was in September 2011 and before that November 2009 in Medellín and Bogotá respectively. I remember both times well. In Bogotá, I was with two friends, Yadira and Alba, and when Yadi saw a peluquería and decided to get her hair cut and colored on a whim, Alba and I had to join in on the fun. I didn’t even bother trying to guide Leonardo, the hairstylist, with my lousy Spanish. I just let the muse strike him. In Medellín, I went one day to a dirt-cheap salon with hot pink signs across from the metro station closest to my apartment. Filled with young girls who were surely fresh out of beauty school (if even that), I did my best to tell Mabel what I wanted. I paid about $2.50, and did I ever get what I paid for. When I got home and used two mirrors to see the back, I saw to my horror that she had done a complete hack job. Doing my best to blindly fix it with a pair of scissors, I then diligently proceeded to wear my hair up for the next few months. 

Hair is symbolic, so what was I doing holding on to that same hair from Colombia almost a year and a half later? This haircut was long overdue. I suppose in seven years all of my cells will be renewed, and then I’ll have reached a new outward symbol of regeneration and growth (and, inherently, loss). By then, the only tangible link I’ll still retain to Colombia will be this Colombian Spanish I couldn’t shake off me if I tried.

To wit: here’s a bit of hair and haircut vocabulary I remember from Colombia. Supremely personal, supremely unhelpful. If you hadn’t noticed, this blog is moving away from being helpful and trying to be more and more an end unto itself.

Motilarse motilarse was the verb I usually heard in Medellín for getting your hair cut. If it’s used in Bogotá, I missed it. Very informal, very Paisa and Caribbean. Or so I thought–I now see that it’s in the DRAE. In fact, I’ve learned that when Spanish settlers arrived in Venezuela and Colombia in the early 1600s, they called the indigenous Barí people of the Catatumbo region Motilones because of their short hair. The name has stuck. Motilar, then, would seem to be an archaic Spanish word that is now used almost exclusively in Colombia. The Colombians are in good company–Cervantes himself used the word motilón in Don QuijoteHas de saber que una viuda . . . se enamoró de un mozo motilón . . . (Motilón here refers to lay people who would wear their hair close-cropped like priests.) Motilar shares an etymological ancestor with mutilate. Ouch.

Motilón

A Motilón/Barí woman

Hacer estragos - I remember Jose (not José), a psychologist at the school I worked at in Bogotá and with whom I once went on a date, saying me hizo estragos when talking about a botched haircut he had just received. It doesn’t specifically have to do with hair per se, but I’ll always think of hair when I hear it. It means to wreak havoc, to ravage, to do a number on.

Trasquilar - Speaking of haircuts gone wrong, I shared above that I got one myself while living in Medellín. It was my own fault, though. I did my best to offset the damage, but my hair was still very crooked. I kept insisting that I’d go somewhere and get it fixed, but I never did, hence the updos that I sported over the next few months. My positive takeaway? I learned the word trasquilar– it means to butcher a haircut, to cut hair badly, to make someone look like they got in a fight with a lawnmower. One friend, Lina, thought my lopsided hair was the height of hilarity, and she could never resist teasing me about my pelo trasquilado every time we met up. It got old fast, but the word stuck. Now that I’m poking around the internet, I’ve stumbled upon the phrase ir por lana y salir/volver trasquilado – to get more than one bargained for, to go for wool and come home shorn (never heard it), to have things backfire on you. You break up with someone to be with someone who seems better and then the new guy turns out to be a dud and you’re single again, worse off than when you started. You move to a new city to take a job that pays more but you never even see those extra earnings because you have to pay more in rent, transport, etc. I love the ovine imagery of the phrase, and I’m committed to using it as much as I can.

Peluquear - Another common way of saying cortar el pelo in Colombia and some other countries. In others, though, it doesn’t even exist. A peluquero is a hairdresser or barber (also barbero). I remember that Alba’s dad was a peluquero. It’s a funny word, if you think about it, because a peluca is a wig. I once bought a purple one off the street in Bogotá. Another word that’s related to peluca and is very common and useful is despelucado/a – with messy hair, with bed head, unkempt, scruffy. There’s also despeinado/a.

Pelucada with Jose

Pelucada with Jose

Ligero - Another one that has no obvious connection to hair. I feel like getting something off my chest, though. So, when I was getting my hair cut in Medellín by Mabel, I naturally tried to speak my very best Spanish but inevitably failed. I remember her asking me at one point ¿Te crece ligero? And I thought, ligero, ligero, ligero. What the dickens did it mean? I could only remember ligero meaning light, as in the opposite of heavy. And then I thought I recognized it from a book of Horacio Quiroga stories I had read. I thought it meant smooth, straight. (I was confusing it with lacio.) As my hair is naturally straight, I said something to the effect of oh yeah, it’s totally straight, I don’t even own a comb or brush, aren’t I lucky? And she looked at me uncomprehendingly like I was from another planet, shrugged, and kept on mutilating my hair. Much to my dismay, I realized my silly error later on. Ligero in this context meant fast, a common way of saying it in Medellín and other places.

Those are the first hairy words that come to mind. A few others are espeluznante, rapar and raponazo, and peliagudo, among others, so I’ll try to write another installment the next time I do something to my hair. I’ve been wanting to dye it burgundy, so maybe then.

Oh, and today while driving home, I was listening to NPR and they were talking about someone suing somebody for damages. A guest commentator said something like, “We don’t know which people they’ll give a haircut and which people they’ll just touch lightly.” My brow furrowed; I don’t think I’d ever heard haircut used that way. To give someone a haircut? Apparently it means cleaning someone out, causing them to lose a great deal of money. I guess there’s getting a haircut, and then there’s getting a haircut, whether your hair wanted cutting or not.

Cursi

I went to a party the other night, and we were all having a merry old time. One of the guests started playing the guitar, and someone asked if he knew any songs by Ricardo Arjona. No, not Arjona, I pleaded. ¡Es muy cursi! Judging by the immediate chorus of indignant gasps and protestations, I had touched a nerve. More than merely defensive of the singer, they took issue with my epithet of choice. ¿Y qué tiene de malo eso, ser cursi? I didn’t stop there. Es más, I said. I’ve found that Hispanics on the whole tend to be much more cursi than Americans. Well, that was it. Se armó la de Troya. The women were then up in arms. Oh, what does she know about love? She’s just a cold, heartless gringa. How could she ever understand the way we Latinos feel and express ourselves? No, they didn’t actually say those things, but it’s what their whelps were basically communicating. As we’re all friends, I took their ribbing in stride. They wouldn’t let me live it down, though–the rest of the night, they kept making a big deal about all the music being CURSI and then looking at me as if to apologize for offending my stony artistic palate.

I wanted to retirar lo dicho immediately, and not because of the outcry from my friends. I knew that no feelings had been hurt, and I still stand by what I said—Ricardo Arjona is cheesy. Immensely so. And his music is not my cup of tea. But if someone wanted to, I’m sure they could lampoon many of my beloved Hispanic singers for being cursi as well–Silvio Rodríguez, Julio Jaramillo, Chavela Vargas, etc. Why does cursi get such a bad rap? And what do we reveal about ourselves when we hiss and glare at this adjective as if it were the devil?

Cursi means cheesy, especially in the sense of mushy, sentimental, sappy, lovey-dovey. Cloyingly sweet, sickeningly sweet. Empalagoso, hostigante, acaramelado. Someone who is cursi oozes miel–honey–and is thus meloso. Think of the Seinfeld episode where he and his girlfriend called each other Schmoopy, and you’ll have a good idea of cursi.

Cursi elefante

It’s very subjective, though. I guess everyone has a certain degree to which they can tolerate mushiness. Predictably, it’s always other people’s sappiness that gets on your nerves; one almost never views their own actions as cursi unless their family and friends start giving them a hard time about their soft side. That is, we’re all hypocrites when it comes to being cheesy. All of us, of course, but the Spanish speakers.

I had a cursi friend in Bogotá named Jhon Carlos. Here’s how I described him to a friend back in 2010: “He’s kind of awkward, though awfully sweet and tender, also kind of cheesy and… eager. :)” Yes; very cheesy, this Jhon Carlos. And very eager–muy intenso–but so genuine and sincere. He filled my inbox for years with emails full of virtual flowers, cliché professions of love, and lots of melosidad. Although I rolled my eyes at the trite and sappy ways that he expressed his feelings for me, I respected him for being so heartfelt and unabashedly cheesy. O sea, for not holding back and for not apologizing for his cheesiness in an effort to put up a barrier of self-protection in case of rejection or mockery. People who dare to bare their hearts make themselves easy targets, but who wants to be the grinch who goes around ridiculing people for attempting to find and then luxuriate in love? Insecure people, that’s who.

My first boss in Colombia, Alba, once gave me a painfully cursi stuffed lion attached to a fuzzy cup that had two hearts on it and had HAPPY EVERYDAY emblazoned across the top. I was touched. The examples I could give of cursi-ness that I observed in Colombia could go on and on, and I’ve noticed it among Hispanic friends from other countries as well. And it’s one of my favorite things about them–I love my Hispanic friends and the Latin American culture at large for being so cursi. I do. No, I still prefer not to receive stuffed animals from love interests seeing as I exited childhood decades ago, but I will take a cheesy, over-the-top, melodramatic love any day over some serious, respectable, safe, buttoned-down alternative. Yawwwwn. ¡Qué pereza!

Happy everyday

Hell, one could date Pablo Neruda and even find him cursi were they to insist on militancy against all sentimentality. Where’s the fun in that, though? And, who knows, maybe even Neruda got exhausted sometimes from the great pressure to be original and not cursi–after a long day of racking his brain for inspired, fresh symbols of love for his poems, perhaps the most he could muster up for Matilde was a little teddy bear he’d pick up at a nearby store. Maybe she even requested them, having been up to her eyeballs in sonnets and odes. There’s nothing wrong with being a little cursi from time to time, and if it’s your MO, well more power to you so long as your partner’s on the same cursi wavelength. Each set of lovers forms their own language and lexicon composed of their significant symbols and code words, and who really cares if some fulano scoffs and labels them as cursi? Ain’t nobody got time for that.

I also think of a gift I once received in Colombia of a set of pillows, one of which had my name crookedly embroidered inside a heart. You can probably guess whose name was in the other heart. As far as cursi goes, I’m pretty sure those pillows take the cake. And yet, very much out of character, I loved those pillows and not in spite of their adamant cheesiness but rather because of it. They were sincere, they were made and given with so much love, and their very existence was a brave, unironic, and unambivalent celebration of something very beautiful and worthy of praise, even if it were to later prove ephemeral. What am I, too good for cursilería? Of course not. Love is always worth celebrating, albeit imperfectly, albeit cheesily, albeit precipitately, albeit years after the fact.

In sum: What is love if not cursi? Love is supremely sentimental and gushy and ridiculous. And love means leaving your self-consciousness at the door, as well as your ego. I feel like you’re not really in love if you’re not regularly making a fool of yourself! But why hide our cheesiness within the safe confines of relationships? I admire people who can unblushingly own their feelings, hopes, and even disappointments without pussyfooting or pretending to not care all that much anyway. Although cursi people could use some work in the originality department, at least they care in the first place. There’s a lamentable epidemic of nonchalance and numbness and self-absorption these days, and cheesiness is a much better alternative to these terrible modes of subpar living. The way I see it, life is about caring. And since people have been caring for millennia, it’s awfully hard to express your care in a way that millions of other people haven’t already done. So, go ahead and be cursi. Those who would snarl and say bah humbug and rain on your parade have their own issues–just feel sorry for them. Ricardo Arjona, I still don’t like your music, but I respect you for sharing your cursi soul with us. There are certainly worse ways to be.

Ñapa

In addition to getting a lot of practice speaking Spanish during my two years in Colombia, I also got to do my fair share of eating. And while I’m incapable of mustering up much excitement for Colombian food in general, there are two categories of Colombian victuals that are decidedly good: fruits/juices and bread. The tropical fruits are abundant and simply spectacular; as for the bread, there’s a bakery on every corner overflowing with it. When I lived in Bogotá, I’d frequently be too lazy to cook and would scarf down big bags of fresh, hot bread all the time. Panes hojaldrados were my favorite. I admit that I’m a little ashamed to out myself as such a (former) bread glutton, but at least I got a useful word from my Pantagruelic ways: ñapa.

The ñapa is the little extra added to something, and its most common usage is the extra roll that a baker tucks into your bag. You know, a baker’s dozen. I learned this my first weekend in Colombia when I went with a group of people to Medellín. I took a bus with my friend Flavio, we stopped at a bakery beforehand to load up on bread, and he flashed a winning smile to charm the women at the bakery into throwing a little extra bread into the bag for us. He’d been sweet-talking them the entire time. He later explained the custom of the ñapa to me. It’s also sometimes called the vendaje or encime in Colombia. Although it was once very common for people to say Vecina, ¿me da ñapa? to the baker, the custom is slowly dying out as modernization kills those little intimacies between neighbors and economic stress puts a damper on generosity. A real shame, the decline of the ñapa. So, enjoy your ñapa while you still can! I should say here, though, that you probably shouldn’t ask for a ñapa unless you’re a regular patron and know the baker well. Otherwise, it could be taken as a little conchudo on your part–one must also know that they are never entitled to a ñapa. Thus, anytime you’re the recipient of one, consider yourself lucky.

La ñapa

Ñapa comes from yapa, the Quechua word for gift, which derives from yapay, or to give more. You didn’t know you were going to learn Quechua when you stopped by my blog today, did you? As you’d figure, ñapa is used in many parts of South America, and it’s also used in the Caribbean. It’s even used in English! How so? Ever heard of the word lagniappe? (You’re forgiven if you haven’t.) Well, it certainly exists, and I’ve certainly seen it . . . a time or two in my life. Apparently, it came into the rich Creole dialect mixture of New Orleans and there acquired a French spelling. It’s still used in the Gulf states, especially southern Louisiana, to denote a little bonus that a friendly shopkeeper might add to a purchase. By extension, it may mean an extra or unexpected gift or benefit. Lagniappe comes from la ñapa. Nifty, eh? I bet you didn’t even know that you knew a Quechua word. Not that it would be the only one in your vocabulary; let’s not forget lima (bean), jerky, condor, llama, and puma, among others.

One phrase I like is de ñapa. It means that something is said or done as a little unsolicited favor. It’s like, Oh, and one more thing. Oh, and since I’m on a roll. Oh, and since I’m so nice, here’s a little extra.

Nos vimos, hablamos, todo bien, no pasó nada, nos despedimos y de repente me dio un beso de ñapa.

We met up, talked, everything was good, nothing happened, we said goodbye, and then he decided to throw in a little kiss.

Has hecho muy bien con tus diez frases de inglés. Ahora te regalo otra, pues esta va de ñapa.

Good job with your ten English phrases. I’ll teach you one more just because I feel like being nice.

It can also be used negatively to mean “on top of all that” like y encima.

Los muchachos atropellaron a una anciana y de ñapa tuvieron la desfachatez de robarle 500 pesos.

The teenagers ran over the old lady and to top it off had the nerve to steal 500 pesos from her.

La ñapa

Although it had been a while since I’d heard or said ñapa, I was reminded of it last week while talking to a Puerto Rican patient. Well advanced in years, she told me that she felt that the portion of life left to her was a ñapa granted from above. O sea, she had lived a good, long life, more than enough to be grateful for, and she viewed any and all additional years added to that amount as an extravagant gift. I liked her way of looking at life. Myself, I hope I have many more loaves of bread to look forward to.

Did you know about la ñapa or its English equivalent, lagniappe? What is this called in your country? Would you be brave enough to ask the baker for una ñapa? Ñapa or no ñapa, bon appetit!